Epic 12-Day Peru Itinerary: The Perfect Adventure Trip For Couples

Peru has been calling our names for years. With my 40th birthday and our 15-year wedding anniversary this year, we decided it was high time to go on a Peruvian adventure. A big thank you to our kids’ awesome grandparents – they made our epic 13-day Peru trip possible, kid-free! We were immediately smitten (drawn to) with the jaw-dropping landscapes, friendly locals, and scrumptious cuisine of this country. This Peru itinerary spills all about our fun-filled 13-day couple’s adventure. Dive in for all the exciting details, our favorite activities, and why you need to hop on a flight to Peru ASAP!

Getting Around Peru

Peru is a big country so the easiest way to get from city to city is by plane. We chose LATAM for all of our in-country flights because they are known to be the most reliable and have plenty of flights available (they fly Lima to Cusco about every 90 minutes for example). There are a couple non-stop flights each week from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado, other days you’ll need to make a lay-over in Lima. Check flights regularly, a non-stop was added on the day we needed 2 weeks before we left and we were easily able to switch making for a much shorter travel day.

If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option, there are buses that travel between major cities, often with an overnight option (Peru Hop is the best known).

Taxis are the easiest and fastest way to get around in Cusco and Lima. We pre-booked several taxis with Taxidatum

We also used the collectivo in Cusco

1. Explore Cusco and the Surrounding Area

Filled with fascinating history, architectural splendors and a rich culture, the former capital of the Incan Empire is a must for any Peru itinerary and a great jumping off point for exploring the Sacred Valley. We recommend taking at least a day or two in order to fully appreciate everything Cusco has to offer.

The Historical Center

Stroll through the Plaza des Armas, the city’s central square where you’ll find fountains, colonial buildings and churches. This is a great spot for people watching, especially from one of the surrounding the cafe windows. A few streets away, marvel at the Incan and Spanish architecture of Coricancha, also known as the Temple of the Sun and the Golden Temple (it’s worth taking a tour with a guide).

San Blas

Just outside of the historical center you’ll find yourself in the trendy San Blas neighborhood. You can easily spend a few hours meandering through the maze of cobble stoned alleyways lined with art galleries, shops, and cafes. Don’t miss the neighborhood’s Main Plaza, San Blas Church, the mercado and of course the San Blas Viewpoint.

The 4 Ruins

Take half the day to explore the 4 Inca temples in the hills above Cusco: Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puca Pucara and lastly Tambomachay. You can book a tour or get there by taxi but we think it’s worth taking the short hike from the historical center to Sacsayhuaman. Along the way, you’ll pass the colonial aqueduct of Sapantiana and Calle los 7 borreguitos, Cusco’s most Instagrammable street. Near the entrance to Sacsayhuaman you can also take a short side trail to the Cristo Blanco statue that presides over the city. From Sacsayhuaman you can take a taxi or hop on a colectivo to the other 3 sites.

2. Hike the Inca Trail and Marvel at Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu should absolutely be on your Peru itinerary, especially if it’s your first visit. Getting to the ‘Lost City of the Incas’ takes a bit of work as the only ways to get there are either on foot or by train from Ollantaytambo. The Inca Trail was something I’ve always wanted to experience but we didn’t want to take up 4 full days so opted for the 2-day ‘Short Inca Trail’ option. There are also longer options available either on the Inca Trail or alternative trails. We went with Llama Path and would absolutely book with them again.

Check out this post for more details about our Inca Trail hike and Machu Picchu adventure

Although it’s possible to do Machu Picchu in one day from Cusco, we suggest spending a night in Agua Caliente so you have plenty of time to explore this mystical place. The 2-day hike allows you to visit Machu Picchu twice, arriving in the afternoon through the famous Sun Gate and returning the next morning to tour the ruins. Get up before sunrise so that you can beat the crowds to the citadel. You’ll want to take your time to explore and savor this magical place, I happily spent over 30 minutes watching the fog move over the mountains. Extend your time by doing one of the optional hikes. We had fun climbing Huayna Picchu which ends with stunning views high above the ruins.

After your tour, grab lunch at Full House or relax in the hot springs in Agua Caliente before taking the train back to Ollantaytambo.

3. Wander Through the Villages of the Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley is a lush valley that stretches 60 miles from Pisac to Machu Picchu. The former center of the Inca Empire is dotted with charming towns, archeological treasures and historical sites waiting to be explored. While most visitors opt for a quick overview of the Valley on a day trip from Cusco, it’s worth spending a couple nights so you can truly enjoy this charming area. Given the distance between major sites, the best way to get around the Valley is either by taxi or by joining a tour.

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is more than just a transit hub to be rushed through on your way to Machu Picchu. This ancient Incan town will take you back in time with its rich history, stunning scenery and timeless ruins. We spent a day immersing ourselves in Ollantaytambo’s charm – wandering through its narrow cobblestone streets, browsing the craft market, climbing ruins and sipping coffee in quaint cafes.

We ate delicious meals at Chullpi and Mawic, both located on the outer edge of town along the river.

Pisac

About 45 minutes from Cusco, Pisac is best known for its handicraft market. The town is small so you

Moray/Maras 

4. Venture into the Rainforest

Peru is one of the best places to experience the incredible biodiversity and wilderness of the Amazon Rainforest. There are two main gateways for the Peruvian Amazon: Iquitos in the north and Puerto Maldonado in the south. With this itinerary, we suggest visiting the Tambopata National Reserve near Puerto Maldonado, as it’s most accessible from Cusco and offers a stunning array of wildlife and nature.

Tambopata Reserve

We spent 3 nights at Chunco Lodge on the Tambopata River. The lodge is rustic, but very clean, with electricity available for a few hours twice a day. The friendly, accommodating staff and knowledgeable tour guides are what make Chuncho Lodge a winner. 

Lake Sandoval

Lake Sandoval is a beautiful lake in the Tambopata National Reserve, a 45-minute boat ride from Puerto Maldonado down the Madre de Rios River. Visitors come to the lake for the wildlife including the giant river otters. Swimming in the lake isn’t recommended because of the electric eels and sting rays, no thank you.

It’s a 3 km hike through the jungle on an elevated boardwalk to get to the lake. The area is popular with day visitors, we were surprised at how busy it was after coming from the isolated Chuncho lodge. At a small port, you board a wooden canoe to tour the lake. On our sunset canoe ride we saw several large groups of monkeys, Arapaima fish, caiman and a huge variety of birds including macaws, and my new favorite, the hoazin bird –affectionately called the huffing or asthma bird by locals for the distinctive sound they make. We got lucky enough to see the otters as we were leaving the lake the next morning.

We spent the night at a small lodge on the edge of the lake. The sunset turned the sky above the palm trees a stunning purple, orange and pink. The experience was made even more magical by the warm Amazonian downpour that drenched us as we canoed back to the lodge.

5. Recharge in Lima

Lima Miraflores

Lima Airport:

Holiday Inn Lima Airport: The hotel is located just outside the airport gates. A complimentary shuttle goes to and from the airport every 15 minutes. The rooms were clean and comfortable (with AC). Additionally, they have 24-hour room service, which was much appreciated after our 11 p.m. arrival. Our room also came with complimentary breakfast that included extensive options of fruit, yogurt, bread, cold cuts, eggs, juices (the green juice was yummy) and more

Cusco:

Tocuyeros Boutique Hotel: This was unquestionably our favorite hotel. Tucked away on a quiet street in the San Blas neighborhood, this was a great location to explore Cusco. The small hotel only has a few rooms which were very comfortable and nicely decorated. The staff was extremely friendly and accommodating. Our room came with a free breakfast, including homemade bread, avocado, fruit and eggs made to order. Lunch and dinner could also be eaten at the small restaurant. 

Ollantaytambo:

Las Qolqas Eco Resort: Las Qolqas is located less than 2 miles outside of Ollantaytambo, nestled in a valley next to the river. The glamping ‘tents’ have their own bathroom, porch and wood burning stove. Breakfast is part of your stay and includes options such as pancakes, omelets, fruit, bread with spreads and yogurt bowls. The on-site restaurant is also available for lunch and dinner with the menu focused on local, organic ingredients. There’s a shuttle to and from town although we didn’t find it super reliable (and only ran until 6:30 p.m.). 

Tambopata (Amazon):

Chuncho Lodge: The lodge sits along the Tambopata River, a 1.5-hour car ride from Puerto Maldonado. The main lodge connects to 10 huts via a raised boardwalk. The huts are basic but clean; each with their own bathroom, fan and beds with mosquito netting. Electricity is available for a few hours several times a day; Wifi is available in the main lodge when the electricity is running. Meals are included and the staff was great about accommodating dietary needs (they even made me chicken noodle soup when I was sick).

Lima:

Hilton Lima Miraflores: A stylish hotel in a great location with lots of restaurants nearby. We very much enjoyed the comfortable bed and huge bathroom after 4 days in the jungle. The rooftop pool and hot tubs offer spectacular city views. 

How To Prepare For Your Peru Itinerary

Make Reservations Early

Peru is a hot tourist destination right now so you’ll need to book in advance for the most visited areas. There are limited permits per day for the Inca Trail so it is recommended to secure your spot 6 months in advance, especially during the high season. You’ll want to do the same if you have your heart set on a specific Amazon lodge since they are generally small.

We didn’t have any trouble booking flights within Peru but prices crept up quickly the closer it got to the departure date so book early to save some money.

Update Vaccines and Pack a Medicine Bag

There are no vaccine requirements to enter Peru but if you’re visiting the jungle there are some things you’ll want to consider. In our consultation with Passport Health it was recommended to be up-to-date with the hepatitis A and B, typhoid fever and yellow fever vaccines. Keep in mind that most insurances don’t cover travel vaccines so be mindful of this added expense (not a cheap one). We also opted for malaria pills for the rainforest although we later heard from other travelers that it wasn’t a big concern in the Peruvian Amazon.

We were prescribed a Z-pack which proved to be a vacation-saver when I got sick with chills and stomach issues mid-trip.

Our medicine bag also included essentials such as Advil, Imodium, anti-itch cream, Neosporin, Liquid IV Hydration Multiplier, mole skin (for hiking blisters) and SPF50. If you have issues with altitude, consider talking to your doctor about preventative medicines before your trip.

Purchase Travel Insurance

GeoBlue

What To Pack For Your Trip to Peru

This itinerary covers a range of climates, so be prepared for both cooler, rainy weather and hot, humid conditions. Since you’ll be moving around a lot, it’s important to pack light. We brought along laundry sheets to wash clothes on the go. It turned out that some hotels offered laundry services but it was quite expensive.

• Rain jacket/poncho
• Light long-sleeved cotton shirts and pants for the rain forest
• Lightweight hiking layers – a long-sleeved SPF shirts came in handy in both the mountains and the rainforest
• Hiking pants/shorts – convertible pants are a great option
• Fleece or thin down jacket
• Wide brimmed hat
• Swimsuit
• Good hiking boots and socks
• Good camera
• Binoculars 
• Flashlight
• Small day pack (big enough to fit what you need for an overnight)
• Water bottle
• Small bills for tipping and smaller stores/markets
• Hand sanitizer and toilet paper – some public bathrooms don’t have soap or toilet paper
• Adapter and Converter – Peru uses 200V Type A, B, and C outlets

How We’d Modify Our Peru Itinerary if Taking Kids

Head Straight to Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail hike was one of the highlights of our trip, but we were happy we didn’t have the kids with us. The and especially the altitude. We are both 5-day per week gym goers and were exhausted by the time we reached Agua Caliente. Older teens could probably handle the hike fine but with younger kids, we would choose to do a 1-day visit to Machu Picchu via the bus from Agua Caliente.

Use Cusco as a Base for Exploring the Sacred Valley

We stayed in Ollantaytambo as our Sacred Valley base because we wanted to avoid the daily drive from Cusco. Ollantaytambo is a nice town to spend a day in, but next time I would choose to base ourselves in Cusco. Ollantaytambo isn’t much closer to other Sacred Valley highlights than Cusco and has limited tour options (since most depart from Cusco). Cusco also has many more good restaurant options and things to do in town. 

Spend 2 Nights in the Rain Forest

I would do a max of 2 nights in the rainforest with our kids. Since activities start early, that combined with restless sleep on hot nights, our kids would not have lasted 4 nights. Two days of searching for animals and learning about medicinal plants is also probably all their attention spans could handle.